Read, Write, Run, Roam

Lepinja, you komplet me: the best Serbian sandwich yet


kompletely gross

I generally don’t like sandwiches, even though I once was a “sandwich artist” at Blimpie. Actually, working at Blimpie ensured that I would never like sandwiches. Do a little research on deli meat and you’ll see why. Serbian sandwiches are the exception.* They feature grilled meat, great toasted bread, and are served in gigantic quantities for a low price. In the Balkans, I’ve lifted my sandwich ban to accommodate pleskavica, cevap, and now, komplet lepinja.

Komplet lepinja is a Zlatibor specialty, though I imagine it’s available somewhere around Belgrade. The flat bread of the sandwich is the “lepinja” part. It’s a bit like pita, but with fluffy dough (is this a term?) inside. The bread is then brushed with lard-relax, it’s basically butter-and grilled. The inside of the sandwich has eggs, kajmak, and prosciutto. Since kajmak and prosciutto are Zlatibor specialties, I’m basically in the best place to try one. So I did. And fell in crazy, fatty love.

Kompletely awesome at Mont Cafe in Zlatibor

If you think this is a simple egg sandwich, you’re wrong. Very wrong, I’m afraid. This is the most gourmet kind of “egg sandwich” you could hope to have in your life. The raw milk kajmak, the proscuitto cured by a nearby family, the fresh bread that is crunchy on the outside, and buttery goodness on the inside…to call it an egg sandwich is to claim that Blimpie’s tuna salad is made in-house. If anything, it’s more like the most delicious chipped beef sandwich than anything resembling an egg sandwich.

The only problem? It’s so huge and filling that I haven’t been able to eat another real meal for 24 hours. I can’t believe it. As Muz says, don’t let my small(ish) size fool you: I can put food down with the best of them. I had plans to try a different komplet lepinje every day I was in Zlatibor, but I couldn’t even think about it today. Don’t worry though, readers: RHOB is a trooper. I’m eating a light dinner so I can try another one in Zlatibor or Macka tomorrow. Now that I’ve found the best sandwich in Serbia, I’m not letting it get away from me quite so easily.

*Eggplant parm and meatball subs are the exception to this rule.

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10 responses

  1. Marjan, MT

    Looks like you’ve seen a bunch of places over there…

    Nice post. I wouldn’t 100% agree on your states ’bout the food but…Oh well, everybody experiece is different I guess.

    Since you often refer Muz for your husband, does that mean he is a Serb and you’re American? f I am right, please, do yourself a favour and visit a raft-restourant in Zemun called “Malla Villa”.

    Few Americans which I took there on dinner simply adored a Turkey Breast.
    Also, I know that Americans which I know are a bit complicated when it comes to premium alcohol so the only place you will find the Grey Goose or Jean Marc XO is on Kalemegdan fortress cafees.

    I apologize for my bad english. I hope you understood at leat a bit from me 🙂

    May 4, 2011 at 12:45 pm

  2. Your English is great! Moj srpski, ipak, nije dobro. Muz is American, but loves to eat and drink like a Serbian. Thanks for the suggestion! We don’t need anything fancy, just good food and maybe some local wine or rakija.

    May 4, 2011 at 4:55 pm

  3. Marjan, MT

    -Thank you for your compliments and trust me, your Српски is way better than you think or at least way better than my wife knows. I am the best proof that you can learn language ONLY by watching tv. Lot of TV. So, by saying that, If I can do it, so can you!

    -If you want a REALLY good food to die for (trust me!) I can give you a an address of that place just … let me ask a brother who actually lives in Beograd ’cause I am from Nis.

    -Also, allow me to suggest a place to visit:
    Scull Tower in Nis – one of a kind place on a World or a Djerdap National Park (south of the Danube on the border with Romania)
    I do not know how much are hotels in Nis, but i am 100% sure that you can at least find a Best Western or Hotel Aleksandar which I would prefer.
    As for Djerdap National Park, prices may vary. Charges US$33 for a single.

    I hope you do not mind asking this, what exactly made you choose and live in Serbia? Heritage perhaps?

    May 5, 2011 at 6:53 am

  4. I’ve been to Nis and really liked it. For some reason I decided to save writing about it for another post and never got around to it. I’d like to go back now that it’s warmer. I’ll also have to check out Djerdap-I haven’t heard of that park.

    I don’t mind you asking. We don’t have Serbian heritage, but my husband traveled here for work a few times over the years and would always come back saying how much he liked it. We always talked about living abroad, so he applied for a one-year contract to work here and got it. The rest is RHOB history!

    May 5, 2011 at 7:56 am

  5. Marjan,MT

    Yeah, Nis is close, you can get there anytime comparing to a places around here in States. Beograd-Nis Highway about an hour and 10mins with a car at least for me. Do not take the bus! (3:20h) Only problem is fuel. You’re probably only american who realizes how much can be expansive since you live there. I am guessing, by now, it’s around 7$ per gallon over there? around 120 dinar per liter?

    Also, places which is a must see on my list would be”
    -Niska banja (Nis Spa city) – only problem is it’s too small so maybe you’ll get bored easily in a houror two unless you know to respect the “mother nature” cause there is no nightlife overthere. Quiet and relaxing place. That’s why s popular.
    Around 10km away from Nis.

    -The Resavska Pećina cave is in eastern Serbia, in the region of Gornja Resava, 20 km from the town of Despotovac. it’s 80 million years old cave.


    Đavolja Varoš, located in southern Serbia, Djavolja Varos is an interesting natural formation of rock towers that seem to take the shape of a city of sorts. The mystery of these formations (202 of them), being almost sculpture-like, caused locals to give it its eerie name, which translates as Devil’s Town.

    About which I said in earlier message, PLEASE do me a favour and visit this place:
    http://www.duff.rs/
    or if it’s easier
    http://www.portal-srbija.com/ugostiteljstvo/fast-food/fast-food-duff/

    May 8, 2011 at 9:35 pm

  6. First, I can’t thank you enough for these suggestions. They’re awesome and perfectly timed since the weather is great. Gas prices just went up, AGAIN, and I can’t remember exactly what it is now but somewhere around $7/gallon is right. We still drive everywhere because it’s easier and we can visit more places that way, but yeah, it’s rough. Thanks to your emails we are talking about revisiting Nis in a couple of weeks, and I think Niska Banja will definitely be added to the list. We think we’ll stop in Leskovac too since their mixed grill is supposed to be famous and it’s on the way, sort of. I have not heard of Duff but will definitely try it. We had good pljeskavica at Loki in Stari Grad, but since it was 2am my opinion may have been rakjia-influenced…

    May 9, 2011 at 7:25 am

  7. Marjan

    -You’re more that welcome!!! It’s pain in the butt when you’re all alone somewhere far away without family & friends so i totally understand. I just hope I am not disturbing and boring.
    Also, If you want to get some American/Canadian friends in Beograd, that’s easy. Go on a cup of coffe in Hotel Moscow Caffee of Hotel Dukat in Zemun. Simple as that. I stayed one time in Zlatnik for few days and all foreign people were there.

    -Leskovac? Trust me, that is a pure waste of time. If you go to Duff Grill, that way you’re gonna save your self the trouble of going over there because duff is perfect example how to grill real meat. Perfect time to go to Leskovac when the time comes for “Rostiljijada”. This is best way to explain it:
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rostiljijada
    Otherwise, Leskovac is a small place like Niska Banja but with bit bigger population (50.000 I think). Been there several times and it’s 15mins driving away from Nis (50km=30miles)
    Cons: Highway is going to remind you of a L.A. Area (710 South). Always some roadwork. Annoying. I hope they finally fixed it. Been there in December ’10 last time.

    -Also, do not forget the Exit Festival in Novi Sad, you’ll find a bunch of Americans,British & Canadians if you feel slightly homesick like i do everyday here, that will help a bit I hope. Notable performers for this year: Portishead, Jamiroquai, Pulp, Arcade Fire, Mia, Magnetic Man, Kreator, House of Pain, Beirut… +many more to be announced…
    http://www.exitfest.org

    -Do not forget Guca Festival. That is by far the best thing happening in Serbia. I am not so sure you will like it, but, If you like to get relaxed this is a place to go (read this as wasted&24h happy for a week because Medovaca-Honey made Rakija is the best instead of breakfast and cheap also, food is more-less cheap) Maybe you will not like that tradition. “Skip the breakfast so you can get wasted already by noon”. LoL.
    All of that looks something like this:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GVFr2t0CMB8&feature=related

    -I do not know how old are you guys and I do not want to be rude by asking that, but I am just speaking/suggesting first what pops my mind and what left a huge influence on me and I would like to be helpful as much as I can if possible. Why I am saying that? Well…If you guys are 50-60yrs old then I would be smart to avoid Exit festival. that’s for sure …

    -Also place to avoid: Sombor and area around town. North-West Part of Serbia. Little town where 10% speaks Serbian or English. Hungarian only who do not want to learn other language except their own. Same problem as Mexicans in California/Texas.
    By the way, did you know that a bunch of illegal people are hiding in Mexico? Rofl !!!

    P.S. I do not want to be rude or possible disturbing, but please, let me know if i can help in any way, otherwise, I will not bother/disturb you (guys).

    May 10, 2011 at 4:26 am

  8. You should write a blog, not me! This is great and not a bother at all. We are in our 30s. We bought tickets to EXIT and are planning to to to Guca. We figure even if we don’t like Guca, we cannot miss it! That’s very interesting what you say about Sombor (though I may have to visit anyway as I am trying to see as much of Serbia as I can this year.) My muz is excited about Duff grill-I’ll have to blog about it and let you know how we liked it.

    May 10, 2011 at 7:56 am

  9. Marjan, MT

    Please, let me know when you do the post about Duff and I promise, you/he will NOT be disappointed with a 200gr Pljeskavica (or 7 ounce if it’s easier around 250 dinars=3.5$) because if you are disappointed, I am buyin’ a dinner when I get back guys.
    It’s way better substitute for Jack In The Box. At least, that’s the way I see it, as Jack make the best burgers in States.

    ME blogging? No, whole point is YOU guys. It’s nice to hear and see foreign people and their experiences.

    I forgot to suggest mountains Zlatibor and Kopaonik. Awesome places.

    One of my favourite places also is Monastery of Pecka Patrijasija but that is in Pec – Kosovo. I would not recommend you to go there because you’re American. Serbs and Americans are NOT welcome there. You’re easily gonna get killed.
    Put it this way: It’s like you’re in the middle of mecca in Sauidi Arabia, how would that make you feel? I hope I am wrong, but I doubt it. I know how was for me and all of my American friends when we were there. That’s just my experience nothing else.

    Okay, that’s enough from me. I feel like I am becoming pain in the butt.

    Take care guys.
    God bless you.

    May 10, 2011 at 2:16 pm

  10. Merry

    The most beautiful food we ate at the Zlatibor was the one at http://villanaturalwood.com/

    It was the best part of our summer holiday in Serbia! God bless Serbia and our friends!

    October 28, 2011 at 1:21 am

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